Biggest Fashion houses signature styles! Part 1 of 2

February 26, 2021

Biggest Fashion houses signature styles! Part 1 of 2

To make sure that we're all on the same page, I'm dedicating this chapter and the next to explaining the basics and the must-knows of the industry. In this part I'm going to be talking about all the big, well-known brands: essential names to recognize and what each of their 'brands' is (by brand I am refering to their signature, what differentiates this company from the others).

As there is an abundant amount of fashion houses around the world, it is undoubtedly impossible for me to write about each and every company. Therefore, I am going to report on a handful of the most famous names that I am certain everyone has heard of at least once. As I previously mentioned in the introduction chapter, if anyone if interested in having me adress any other specific brands, notify me in the comments or via my email and I'll try my best!

The houses that I have chosen to indirectly take part in my reports are the following:

1. Alexander McQueen

2. Balenciaga

3. Balmain

4. Bottega Veneta

5. Burberry

6. Celine

7. Chanel

8. Christian Dior

9. Dolce & Gabbana

10. Etro

11. Givenchy

12. Gucci

13. Hermès

15. H&M

16. Isabel Marrant

17. Jacquemus

18. Louis Vuitton

19. Valentino

20. Versace

If you do not see a brand you wished to read about, fear not as in future chapters I fully intend to incorporate the rest of the big names into the blog!

So! Finally, we're now able to move on to the breif check on all of the mentioned brands.

Alexander McQueen

Founder: Alexander McQueen (passed in 2010)

CEO: Emmanel Gintzburger (since 2016)

Just one glimpse at an Alexander McQueen catwalk and it becomes undeniably evident that the brand in question is nothing less than exotic and unorthodox. The acts of display of the pieces never cease to present themselves as stunningly unanticipated. Alexander McQueen always carries out the perfect balance between elegance, dignity, finesse and enigma.

The fashion houses' signature can demonstrate itself in :

- Roman Gothic and Victorian-inspired pieces

- The frequent hint of armor or pieces that 'protect' the woman wearing them

- Immaculate tailoring

- An abundant use of tartan

- Animal-inspired textiles (eg. the famous bird motif)

- Sometimes pieces inspired by military uniforms, traditional Japanese kimonos, and Latin America

Balenciaga

Founder: Cristóbal Balenciaga (passed in 1972)

CEO: Cédric Charbit (since 2016)

Balenciagas' creations are deeply mystical, often dancing with disproportionate shapes that add spotlight to the drama of the scenes. Rich colors to match the expressive shapes of each work of genius, creating monumental chef-d'oeuvres hard to divert your eyes from.

To recognize a piece as a Balenciaga, look out for:

- Simplicity, minimalism, powerful colours and dynamic shapes all embodied together

- Severe corners and curves

- Smooth and polished materials

- An abundant use of crisp silk gazar, as the founders' signature fabric

Balmain

Founder: Pierre Balmain (passed in 1982)

CEO: Jean-Jacques Guevel (since 2020)

In many Balmain pieces we can notice the almost warrior/armor-like design, futuristic style, notions of metallic material and even fragments of mirrors incorporated into the creations. This is how Pierre Balmain integrates his knowledge from stuying architecture into his productions.

Likewise, the use of silk is heavily appreciated, as well as diverse patterns, harsh color contrasts, the abundant use of leather and latex and the iconic oversized shoulder pads. Some outfits seen on catwalks even give off a beam of traditional hispanic patterns.

Moreover, some of the most iconic Balmain accessories include the following attributes: gold medllions, buttons and symbols.

Bottega Veneta

Founder: Renzo Zengiaro, Michele Taddei

CEO: Bartolomeo Rongone (since 2019)

Known especially for its leather craftmanship, the iconic weave (Intrecciato) used in many items, and the minimal yet faboulously elegant portrait, Bottega Veneta practices amazing tailoring and tends to accentuate the folds and weaves on their creations.

"(Bottega Veneta) recenters the idea of 'luxury' within a context of bold confidence and elegant individuality" wrote Gunner Park for Highsnobiety (read article here!).

Black leather goods, as well as slim puffer coats, Intrecaccio woven outerwear, double layered knits and raised collar jackets take up a considerable amount of space and fame in the brands iconic looks.

Burberry

Founder: Thomas Burberry (passed in 1926)

CEO: Marco Gobbetti (since 2017)

This English brand is most well known for the use of autumn colors and the smart style all of their designs embody, maintaining the soul of the company, which was founded back in the mid eighteen-hundreds, by embracing the fashion trends which were around in that era.

Other signature traits the brand manifests are the equestrian knight logo, and the recognizable blak, camel and red Nova check, however the real trademark is the unmistakeable Burberry trench coat, which are, in fact, so fascinating that I will be talking more about them in future posts.

Celine

Founder: Céline Vipiana

CEO: Séverine Merle (since 2017)

Celine is a very French-inspired clothing company: very polished and elegant, with graceful lines and subtle tailoring. One of the most recognizable traits of a Celine creation is the contemporary minimalism, and also the no-logo approach.

Many of Celine's catwalk outfits consist of a fine black leather jacket or outerwear combined with chic items such as skirts with elegant patterns, light blouses with an almost Victorian approach or classic blazers put together with trousers of different fancy materials. The company designs extravagant glam items too, habitually showing off long, sheer dresses that are light and similar to the Victorian blouses, with a metallic approach and many times the skirt is plaid. Many outfits include a belt, weather it's a dress, a skirt, trousers...

Chanel

Founder: Coco Chanel (passed in 1971)

CEO: Alain Wertheimer (since 2016)

Chanel's style is absolutely unmistakeable. Unlike a few other companies, where you have to breifly examine the item to tell what brand it belongs to, with a simple peek at one of Chanel's garments, it immediately becomes clear by who it was designed.

Some of their signature aspects manifested in the pieces are the frequent use of black and white themes, along with sailor and nautical themes, often using stripes. Simplicity, elegance and comfort are personified with the people who clothe themselves in Chanel.

A common technique used by this establishment is the highlighting of the folds and hems of each apparel, accomplished by using a darker (less frequently a lighter) color. Accessories such as an abundance of pearls as necklaces and belts, gold chains and buttons are also trademarks of this fashion house, no to mention the quilted bags.

Christian Dior

Founder: Christian Dior (passed in 1957)

CEO: Sidney Toledano (since 2015)

The founder was inspired by British female fashion and managed to incorporate this into the ideal French luxury brand. Therefore, Dior's older garments featured tiny waists, full busts, padded hips and soft shoulder lines: the female figure in a way it was never seen before.

Many of the brand's most common traits include fairy tale-like outfits (moslty gowns): lights and feathery materials, pale colors on sheer materials, and a rich amount of floral designs. Moreover, many of Dior's publicity in magazines such as Elle and Vogue include women in these fairy tale gowns stretched along the roots of a tree half dormant. The overall feeling while looking at this advert is of a dream.

Other costumes include dramatic colors and shades, long heavy skirts, and sometimes an appearance that ressembles a doll, even adding the doll-style makeup to the models wearing the masterpieces.

Dolce & Gabbana

Founder: Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana

CEO: Alfonso Dolce (I searched for hours and couldn't seem to find when he began this role, if anyone knows, update me please!)

These designers are said to be the inventors of the Maditerranean style, being inspired by Luchino Visconti's movie, which came out in 1963 based in Sicily. They were also inspired by the sensuality and formality of the women of the Italian realism.

They are creative with the use of fabrics and colours: alternating, blending and dividing them, each time accomplishing a perfectly polished and smart, delicate and energetic look. Likewise, they know exactly when it is convenient to mix periods and countries & fabrics and styles, in order to nail an outfit that could be seen in a dream, but also in an ancient royal palace.

Some of Dolce & Gabbana's catwalks include two piece detailed suits, jackets with jewels and other attatched accessories, many pieces inspired by archaic royalty, animated colors, floral and animal prints, and some items even give off a 'tropical' feeling, in that the vivid colors combined with certain prints create such a sensation.

Etro

Founder: Gerolamo Etro

CEO: Freancesco Fresci (since 2015)

Italy, Africa, Asia and South America are all great sources of inspiration for Etro, notably India: the patterns, colors, shapes... no wonder the brand's trademark is paisley patterns.

They tend to use refined, natural fabrics with vivid colors, juxtaposing them to find the most exotic yet whimsical finish. The Etro family quoted:

"We [also] have the following topics in out collection: upholstery fabric, exotic textile products, Italian patterns, books from Africs, Asia & Sount America, When we set to work in order to create a new collection, first we take a look at our archive".

There we have it! The first half of the list. As promised, the next chapter will be the secong half, and succeeding that, I will finally be diving into the ins and outs of the fashion industry and talking about what is most iinterestig and curious from my perspective!

Where I found it all

Alexander McQueen links